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Buying advice ·

Buying a second-hand caravan: the 12-point inspection checklist

Second-hand caravans are 30–50% cheaper than new but hide 30–50% of their defects until you tow them. Here's the 12-point pre-purchase inspection every buyer should run before signing, with what to look for and what disqualifies a sale.

Second-hand caravans are typically 30–50% cheaper than new equivalents. They also hide 30–50% of their defects until you’ve owned them long enough to find out — usually on your first proper trip.

The best defence is a structured pre-purchase inspection. This guide walks you through 12 checks to run before signing, what to look for at each, and what should disqualify a sale outright.

You don’t need to be a caravan mechanic to run this. You do need patience and a torch.

Before you arrive

Three checks that save you a trip:

  • Verify the VIN on the compliance plate matches the ad and the registration papers. Cross-check with PPSR (Personal Property Securities Register) — costs $2 and reveals whether the van is under finance or stolen. Do this before you drive to see the van.
  • Check the ACCC recall register for the specific make, model and year. Recent Australian caravan recalls have covered suspension components, water heaters, gas systems and electrical. Recall status of an unrepaired unit is a legitimate negotiation lever, not a walk-away — but it must be actioned before you tow.
  • Ask for the compliance plate photo if the seller won’t provide the VIN. A seller who won’t share the VIN before you visit has something to hide.

The 12-point inspection

1. Chassis and frame (10 mins)

Get under the van. Look for:

  • Rust on the chassis rails, particularly around the a-frame, suspension mounting points, and rear crossmembers
  • Weld cracks — visible especially around suspension brackets and drawbar joins
  • Bent or repaired sections — a chassis with obvious weld-repair points has been in a serious impact
  • Grease around suspension pivots indicating recent service (positive signal)
  • Water pooling or drainage tracks on the chassis (indicates leak history)

Walk-away signals: visible chassis rail cracks, obvious impact repair, structural rust.

2. Underbody water tanks and plumbing (5 mins)

  • Tank strap integrity — corroded or replaced straps
  • Drain valve function — should open cleanly
  • Plumbing joints — look for staining suggesting slow leaks
  • Grey water outlets — check for cracked fittings

Modern lithium off-grid setups often have complex water plumbing. Check that the number of tanks matches the manufacturer’s original spec — added aftermarket tanks aren’t automatically bad but change the loaded weight distribution.

3. Roof (10 mins)

Get on the roof if permitted (or use a ladder to inspect from close range). This is where hidden problems live:

  • Sealant condition around every roof penetration — hatches, air conditioner, antenna, solar panel mounts, plumbing
  • Panel joins — original sealant lines should be intact and pliable, not cracked or missing
  • Solar panel mounting — screws should be sealed; missing sealant is future water damage
  • Air conditioner surround — the most common leak point on Australian caravans

Walk-away signal: obvious water staining on interior ceiling directly below a roof penetration. Water damage inside a composite van can be very expensive to repair.

4. Walls, floor and ceiling (interior) (15 mins)

Systematic room-by-room:

  • Soft spots in the floor — walk deliberately across every square metre
  • Discoloration or staining on interior walls and ceilings, particularly at wall-floor and wall-ceiling junctions
  • Cabinetry alignment — doors that don’t close square indicate frame movement
  • Window frame integrity — inside sealant lines
  • Fridge cavity walls — check for water staining from behind the fridge

Old-school aluminium-frame vans hide water damage in the timber studs behind the wall panels. Composite vans (post-2022 for most brands) are more resistant but not immune. Any interior discoloration is worth investigating; multiple stains are usually a walk-away.

5. Windows and doors (5 mins)

  • Every window opens and locks cleanly
  • Fly screens intact
  • Door seal — should compress uniformly when the door closes
  • Deadlock function on the main entry door

Aluminium hopper windows in older vans often have cracked catches or perished rubber — noted but not usually a walk-away; parts are available.

6. Electrical system (15 mins)

Turn everything on:

  • Interior lighting — every LED, every zone
  • 12V and 240V outlets — test each with a phone charger or a small appliance
  • Water pump operation
  • Battery monitor reading against actual battery state — mismatch suggests a failing monitor or a compromised battery
  • Solar charge indicator — if sun is available, it should show charge into the battery
  • Inverter function if fitted

Battery age is important. AGM batteries typically 3–5 year life; lithium 8–12 years. A battery in the second half of its life shouldn’t stop a purchase but is worth $500–$2,000 in negotiation depending on capacity.

7. Gas system (10 mins)

If you’re not gas-competent, have a licensed gas fitter inspect this. Otherwise:

  • Gas certification sticker date — must be within 12 months for a compliant van
  • Bottle strap integrity and cage condition
  • Regulator age — regulators degrade
  • Cooktop, oven, grill — each burner ignites cleanly
  • Hot water system operation — gas mode particularly

Walk-away signal: expired gas certification with no seller intent to update. It’s a legal requirement and the buyer inherits it.

8. Fresh water system (10 mins)

  • Pressurise the system and check every joint for weeps
  • Water pump priming speed — should be immediate on a full tank
  • Tap function in every fixture including outdoor shower
  • Hot water system — pilot ignition (if gas), heating time
  • Water heater anode condition (accessible via inspection panel)

9. Brakes and wheel bearings (15 mins — jack the van)

If the seller allows jacking (they should):

  • Electric brake function — with the van jacked and off the ground, activate the brake controller and confirm all wheels lock proportionally
  • Bearing play — grasp each tyre top-and-bottom and check for movement (should be minimal); side-to-side movement suggests worn bearings
  • Handbrake function
  • Brake magnet age — an inspection of the magnet condition through the brake drum inspection port

Walk-away signal: brakes that don’t engage evenly across all wheels — the electric brake system may be compromised.

10. Tyres (5 mins)

  • DOT date code on each tyre (last 4 digits of the sidewall marking indicate week/year of manufacture)
  • Tread depth across the tread — even wear indicates alignment is fine
  • Sidewall condition — cracks or bulges are walk-aways

Tyres over 6 years old should be replaced regardless of remaining tread. Bake-off from Australian sun ages caravan tyres faster than road wear.

11. Coupling and drawbar (5 mins)

  • Hitch condition — cracked or worn coupling components
  • Safety chain attachment points solid and correctly rated
  • Handbrake cable function
  • Jockey wheel raises and lowers cleanly, no side-to-side wobble
  • Corrosion on any drawbar joint

For off-road couplings (DO35, Cruisemaster CRS, Hitchmaster), inspect for wear on the ball or hitch surfaces. Replacement is expensive.

12. Tow it (30 mins)

Non-negotiable. Take the van for a 30-minute test tow on mixed roads. Highway speed. Corners. A rough section if possible.

  • Any pulling — indicates alignment or brake issues
  • Braking behaviour — pull the brake controller manual override; van should decelerate cleanly
  • Sway at speed — normal caravans have modest sway; excessive sway suggests tyre pressure, suspension or weight-distribution problems
  • Suspension noise over bumps — clunks or metallic clangs are worth investigating
  • Air conditioner function while under way if you can safely test it

A seller who won’t allow a test tow is telling you something. Insist.

What to bring

  • Torch
  • Phone charger (electrical test)
  • Small appliance (kettle, hair dryer) for 240V test
  • Tyre pressure gauge
  • Paperwork checklist (VIN, registration, PPSR receipt, recall check screenshot)
  • A friend as second pair of eyes

After inspection, before signing

  • Get an independent mechanical inspection if any doubt remains — most Australian caravan-service specialists offer pre-purchase inspections for $200–$400. Worth the money on any purchase over $30k.
  • Cross-check advertised specs against the compliance plate — tare, ATM, and construction year all documented on the plate must match the ad
  • Confirm inclusions in writing — any accessories advertised (bike rack, generator, awning mat, dinnerware) go on the sale contract

The single most important habit

Never sign the same day. Sleep on it. Every experienced caravan buyer has bought at least one van that felt right in the moment and revealed problems within a fortnight of ownership. A one-day cooling-off between inspection and payment eliminates most of that risk.

Further reading

The delta between a good second-hand caravan and a bad one isn’t the price you paid — it’s whether the previous owner maintained the roof sealant. Prioritise the checks that matter (roof, chassis, electrical, tow test) and the price becomes rational whether it’s a $30k old Jayco or a $150k premium Lotus.